Saleofcar.com :Chevrolet

Chevrolet C-10 (1965)
for sale

Price: US $100.00

Description:

This auction is for a 1965 chevy c20 (3/4 ton). It has been changed to a c10 (1/2 ton) using a complete 1986 front suspension and rear axle.
The engine is a 350 crate motor. I have included pictures of the inside of the motor for it was taken apart and looked at with a few gaskets replaced while we were in it. Very clean inside. Low mileage as well. Under 30k. 140-150 compression on all 8 cylinders. The engine was topped with an air gap manifold. The water pump was replaced with a new one along with the new aluminum radiator, new electric fan ( with thermostatic control), new hoses and new thermostat, along with a new t-stat housing. The fuel system has been gone through and new lines and hoses, rebuilt holley carb and new fuel pump added. The factory fuel tank is still used and is very clean inside. The ignition system includes an HEI conversion with new cap, rotor, MSD coil, plugs and MSD plug wires. Exhaust is factory style manifolds with 2 inch exhaust and new glass packs and hangers that stop right behind the cab just in front of the 2 link. New starter and new flywheel as well. It was mounted using the 86 style mounting system.
For the brakes we replaced, the rotors (1thick), bearings, seals, pads and hoses up front. It has received a power brake conversion with a kit from Brothers trucks. So new booster, master and prop valve. We also replaced all of the hard lines. The rear has new shoes and wheel cylinders with new drums and a new hose. Al new brake fluid added. I have included pix of the brake system during the build process to show that.
The trans is a rebuilt turbo 350 with under 10k miles at best estimate. The pan was dropped and the filter changed. It was very clean inside and shifts very smoothly. The torque converter is a new one with less than 1000 miles on it. The shifter is a new floor mount Lokar which can be seen in some of the photos. There is also a new 2 piece driveshaft with a new carrier bearing and u joints. I have included pics of the trans as well. New cooler lines to the radiator and all new fluid. It was mounted using a new mount and the 1986 cross member.
For the suspension, it has been replaced with a 1986 c10 up front which allowed the use of the disc brakes. We also upgraded to power steering while we were there. I added a pic of that as well. The power steering is from a 1986 and the pump from a 1973 with new hoses spliced together and installed with a new bracket and pulleys for the operation. The lower control arms were cupped to clear the 2500 bags, and new drop spindles were added, along with a fresh alignment. The rear suspension is the factory 2 link with an extended panhard bar and 1 drop blocks and 2600 bags with a mild notch. The axle was drained of old fluid and the gasket replaced along with the axle seals and new fluid added. I have also included pix of the 3rd member and a pic of the rear suspension before I raised the bed floor. There are 4 new shocks too. The front shocks use the factory mounting locations, while the rears recieved custom made brackets.
Air system is from accuair. The switchspeed system. It CAN BE upgraded to E-level if desired. The compressors are both 444's with a new white 5 gallon tank, exo mounts, water separator and all new fittings with new lines and the VU4 manifold. Controller lays on the seat. But there is plenty of cable left to mount it if desired. New wiring for it to include a splitter for the compressor power leads, new high amp solenoid for operation.
Tires are all new G78's from coker tire.
Wiring is mostly factory. The hood was not on the truck when we got it and the wiring had been cut so we repaired that. We also updated to a one wire alternator and HEI. We extended the wiring and mounted it to the frame to keep it out of harm's way with the missing wheel wells. We did this when we removed the wires for the factory alternator. The headlight switch and knob with bezel, wiper bezel and knob, Choke cable and bezel, ignition switch with new lock and tumbler and new lighter with element are all new. Headlight and tail light bulbs are new. New dimmer switch. New speedo cable and gear drive. The gauges all work with 2 new gauges from the water and oil pressure. They were installed in holes already made in the dash. Wipers work as well with new blades. At this point, the only known issue with the electrical, is the dash lights work only sometimes. I have already looked into a ground issue and did not find one. New fan controller with relay powered new cooling fan at the radiator. New battery that has been mounted on the frame under the bed. With new cables to the starter and ground. Still easy to get to through the wheel well if it needs a jump. Tail light wires and sockets were also replaced.
For the interior, we kept it pretty simple. First of we repaired he rusted floors and floor supports. We also replaced the inner and outer rockers. That was most of the rust on the truck. I have included pictures of the new metal while it was still getting installed. We did seam seal it and rubber coat the new pieces. We filled in the factory trans tunnel hole for the factory shifter, and added the new lokar to it. Then we installed a rubber floor mat with insulation along with a new firewall insulation pad. We installed new weather strip to the doors. Added a new glove box liner. It has 2 aircraft style lap belts. All of the glass is original with no breaks or cracks. The weather strip for the glass is in good shape and not brittle. Windows roll up and down well. Vent windows work well with the latches functioning too. The cowl vents work and have good rubber too. We kept the factory steering wheel. Replaced the dash switches as outlined previously, and had the seat recovered with a new cover from LMC truck with new padding too. We did remove the clutch pedal while we were in there.
As for the body, we repaired the major rust problems. Again, we replaced the floors, some of the toe boards, floor supports that needed it either whole or in sections and inner and outer rockers. The front fenders were in real bad shape so we replaced the bottom section behind the wheel and also replaced the fender braces in those areas top to bottom with new pieces. Hood hinges are Porter Built units with struts. We repaired the core support where it was broken by drilling the break to stop it and welding it where needed. The cab corner has some rust and I included a pic of that as well as the rust hole in the pass side bed side and the rust on the tail gate which is straight. We raised the bed floor to clear the notch. We used 16 gauge square tubing and used plywood with new hardware for the floor. We also moved the wheel wells up and bolted them into place to keep the bed clean.
I have plenty of pictures of the build up if needed. I am available to answer any questions you may have as well. 719-three five eight-6981. NO TRADES please. Serious bids only.

_{update: 2016-08-09}