Saleofcar.com :Triumph

Triumph TR4A IRS (1966)
for sale

Price: US $4,400.00

Description:

1966 Triumph TR-4A I.R.S.
Hello! This is our father/son Triumph project that we are selling due to lack of garage space and time! Car is located in the suburbs of Chicago, zip code 60068.
*Very reasonable reserve set for this classic British sports car!*
In General:
Triumph produced a total of 28, 465 TR4s from 1965-1967. This car is a 1966, one of 11, 097 produced that year. Four cylinders with a 2138 cc engine and 105 h.p.
This car:
Running and driving car. Original “Signal Red” car; paint code 32. Black interior with white piping. 4 speed, non-overdrive. Lefthand drive. Twin SU carbs. Rear drum, front disc brakes. Original IRS car, as noted by the second “C” in the VIN. Unique features: The IRS is a premium on this car, as well as the wire knock off wheels with wire spare wheel in trunk, as well as the twin SU carbs, and finally the Triumph radio.
VIN #
: CTC 68579 L
BODY #:
69294 CT
ENGINE #
: (gone for weekend, will add Monday!)
MILAGE:
68, xxx
TITLE:
Illinois. Open, no lein.
As you can see, this car is largely original, yet is still in need of work. By work, mainly body work and paint. This car was in a garage since the early 1990s, and we brought it back to life! We spent over $1000.00 in parts from Moss Motors getting this TR-4A IRS back on the road where it deserves to be! Leave as is (with some improvements) or restore! Get into a true, classic convertible with wire wheels for a fraction of the cost of other vintage cars, and 10x the fun! This car is a charmer in person!
Here is the work we did and the parts we installed:
-Removed head, installed new head gasket.
-Cleaned, de-carboned pistons, head, ground the valves, installed all new valve lifter cups.
-Torqued the head to proper specs from the workshop manual.
-Painted the head.
-New valve cover gasket.
-Removed exhaust header, cleaned, painted, installed new gaskets to the block and lower exhaust.
-New cogged fan belt.
-New fuel pump.
-New copper fuel line from gas tank to fuel pump, and up to carbs.
-Removed gas tank, flushed it out.
-Cleaned and freed up the fuel sender unit in gas tank.
-New thermostat and gasket.
-New radiator hoses.
-Removed radiator, painted it, had it cleaned out and leak checked at a shop.
-Rebuilt and synched both SU carbs.
-New air filters for each carb.
-Installed fuel filter.
-Replaced the ignition switch and key (aftermarket).
-Totally new braking system.
-Every brake line replaced with the British-made kit, when I say every one, I mean it! (I wouldn’t wish that job on anyone! Consider yourself lucky…)
-New brake master cylinder.
-New front brake rotors.
-New front brake pads.
-Front calipers rebuilt with kit, cleaned and painted.
-Rear drums sanded inside and out and painted.
-New rear brake shoes (Note: parking brake not hooked up)
-New clutch master cylinder.
-New braided line to slave cylinder.
-All fluids changed (oil, trans, brake, clutch, rear diff, coolant)
-New oil filter, painted the housing.
-Removed engine pan, completely cleaned out sludge, painted it.
-New engine pan gasket.
-New cap, rotor, and sparkplug wires.
-New spark plugs.
-Removed the starter motor, tested it, greased the gear.
-Every grease fitting I could find removed, cleaned, and re-greased.
-Made panel that covers gas tank in the trunk, and attached original panel to the panel I made.
-Made new aluminum bracket to secure battery.
-Made an aluminum L shaped patch where the trunk floor meets the body under the gas tank area of the trunk. Neatly used rubberized rust proofing between the new panel and body, the pop riveted it in, primed it and spray painted it red. Rest of trunk is solid.
More on the condition of this car:
The car is a strong runner, engine starts with choke, and smoothes out nicely as you push the choke in. Balance your favorite nickel on the value cover. Engine pulls nicely. The car wants to really go, but the old tires say otherwise! Note, it pops out of second gear-but if you slightly ride the clutch it doesn’t do it (clutch adjustment? Worn synchro?). Other than that, you can run through the gears no problem. Since brake system is all new, the brakes need to be bled again to make them perfect (i ran out of time to bleed them again). Tires are old, mismatched and cracked. I would not drive too far on them. They hold air and are good enough for a test run, but get NEW tires straight away! Most everything works on the car. Here are some notable exceptions: missing one horn, the tach doesn’t work (didn’t have time to investigate, grease cable?), the tail lights do not work when lights are on (brake lights work, headlights work, turn signals work, generator light works, …), parking brake unhooked, front sidemarker lights not working, radio turns on but no speaker (didn’t try hooking one up yet). Battery is probably 5+ years old, not sure just how old. The paint is pretty much shot (faded, spidered, looks like the car cover stuck to the trunk at some point). The front drivers side has a dent at the side marker (see picture). There is surface rust and dings here and there and over there. The car overall is pretty solid (I had it jacked up every which way to Saturday and spent countless hours underneath it, trusting my life to it). The end of the frame on the drivers side is soft, but the part is non-load bearing. Could use a “c” channel welded in. Floors are solid. I know, I know…everyone is really worried about rust on these cars! We would not have bought this car and spent so much money and time on it if it was a hopeless rust case. Aside from bad tires, you could drive this car home (in the daylight)! Obviously the front panel under the bumper needs replacement. You can buy that part from Moss Motors. The original cardboard transmission cover is flaking away, especially on the passenger side footwell. I would splice in a new piece. The grab handle under the glove box needs to be replaced. The wood on the dash is pretty nice, does not appear to have ever been refinished. Has cracks in the finish. Overall, the car has great patina (if you are into that sort of thing)!
READ THIS:
This is a great project car! Leave as is, or restore! Either way, get new tires! It needs more work to make it really shine!!! Obviously! We have done the grunt of the mechanical work so you don’t have to! Believe me, I saved you way more time, money and headaches than you think! Trust me….!!!!!!!!!!! It took a year to do all the mechanical work, we didn’t rush and did it right. Get your favorite body man or body shop to sand her down, fill in the rust spots, spray her red and away you go! Interior is good enough. Top is good enough. Exhaust is good enough.
These cars are appreciating rapidly! Soon the average guy will be priced out of every vintage car that is even remotely desirable. Get one NOW! Don’t wait. Tick tock, tick tock…$$$$$
SALE INCLUDES:
The front chrome bumper (not pictured). The rear chrome bumperettes with lights for the license plate (not pictured). The tonneau cover, the parade boot cover, the jack, the wire spare, the original tool pouch (no tools), the old rubber Triumph floor mats and some of the old parts we removed and replaced.
Call me with any questions at (608) 217-3562
SALE TERMS:

$500.00 deposit due with 48 hours of the sale via PAYPAL. Pay the balance within a week by bank check or direct deposit. Call me to work these details out. You are responsible for pick up! We can store the car for you for about a week or so.
***Get your shipper ready BEFORE the end of the auction! Be prepared! Do NOT delay with payment or picking up the car, PLEASE.
DISCLAIMER:
CAR SOLD “AS IS.” YOU UNDERSTAND THAT IT IS A 50-YEAR OLD CAR IN NEED OF WORK. IT IS A PROJECT CAR. THERE ARE NO EXPRESSED WARRANTIES. THERE ARE IMPLIED WARRANTIES. THERE ARE NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND. DO NOT BID IF YOU HAVE ANY RESERVATIONS ABOUT ITS CONDITION.
THERE ARE NO RETURNS. YOU MEET THE RESREVE, YOU BOUGHT THE CAR. PLEASE CALL AND ASK ANY QUESTIONS. YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO KNOW WHAT YOU ARE BIDDING ON!!!!

_{update: 2016-07-09}